Today the snow engulfs us. ALL - you heard me - ALL Southwest trains were reported cancelled earlier. That's assuming you can find any way of getting to the station, short of walking (read: skating).
Lucky indeed was I to be able to get to London and home totally unsnowed, for I had an important mission. A pilgrimage if you will, towards spiritual enlightenment - that and some art history essay research.
The final essay I have to tackle before the term is up is on the subject is canonical buildings. We have been asked to write about a building in London or Oxford of our choosing that forms part of the art 'canon', a term used to refer to the collection of historically significant art and architecture deemed worthy to study and investigate. What strikes you as one of the most impressive buildings in London (easier to get to than Oxford) that you know will have several books and source material out there to consult? (better to pick a building that I'd actually be able to gather information on).
St Pauls. That was my first choice. I figured it was huge, well known, obviously worthy of study and investigation - it's a hot tourist attraction these days, obviously it's the 'right' kind of building to go for.
So I planned a trip to go see it. Despite being a hot spot for tourists, I'd never been. Their website is extensive. They have a stuffed diary of events going on so much so it almost makes you forget it's a cathedral, y'know, somewhere religious. I'm sure their gift shop is excellent.
I was already bored. Already I had visions of the swathes of tourist types, like cattle, trampling around and chattering. I didn't wanna go, I wasn't even there yet and the whole thing felt like a headache. To make matters worse when I tried to check out St Pauls related books from the library they were all out. This was fine, I could wait a few days, but point being someone else would be writing a similar essay. I'd be boring the lecturer, dooming them to read yet another essay about such an obvious building, nah, it was all getting a bit too mainstream....
I'm not a mainstream kinda girl.
Then I heard it, the voice of God. 'Oi, Tori. Do you remember that unusual round church from that movie with Tom Hanks and Amelie? Your Dad mentioned it didn't he....' He did indeed, but I'd initially dismissed it as too unknown and niche. Then, whilst staring at the rows of old books in the uni library I noticed an entire book dedicated to this usual little church - a sign!
I ran it past my lecturer who gave me the green light and my mission was clear: The building I was going to write about would be The Temple Church.
The Temple Church is located in the heart of legal London, surrounded by barristers chambers and the visually impressive Royal Courts of Justice. It was first built in 1185 by the Knights Templars as their English headquarters. The church consists of two parts, the circular nave section, called The Round Church and the Chancel, a rectangular adjoining area built half a century later. It's the circular section that makes this church so unusual. The construction for this was based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, the Templars most holy site.
Now there's a lot to read and understand about The Templars that extends beyond anything Dan Brown's written about, so I'm still in the process of getting up to speed. But being an art history degree, the essay didn't need a history lesson but rather a first-hand study of the building itself. I emailed the verger, Oliver Petter, keen to make sure someone who worked there would be available to answer a few questions, and set up a visit. I planned to attend one of their organ recitals, in order to get a full experience of the building's multiple functions.
Sounding like a true art historian.
But more importantly, I just wanted to see how it felt to be there. Would the building be able to inspire in me words worth reading?
The first thing that struck me was how much of an oasis the church was in among the sea of imposing legal buildings. I instantly loved it. It isn't the worlds most decorated church. The external appearance is modest and minimal. The walls don't feature sculptures, but the rounded section of the building is, to me, aesthetically beautiful. Some of the original detailing around the door remains where you can make out interesting faces and figures. I snapped away with my camera.
I used to be very anti-religion when I was younger. It didn't sit well with me that there could be a set of 'one size fits all' rules to live your life by, with the threat of an afterlife in somewhere hot and flamey as a means to keep people on the straight and narrow. But not coming from a very religious family it wasn't really an issue. As I got older I found I enjoyed visiting churches, on the rare times we would as part of some family holiday sight-seeing. They are places of calm. How often do you seek out somewhere for the peace? Not enough enough I'm willing to bet. We work hard and play hard right? If we're not rushing to and fro wherever it's ultra important we get to, we're filling the rest of our time with activity and past-times. Well instead of always being active and keen to past the time, why not try stopping still. I don't consider myself a Christian and I don't think you need a 'title' but I do have my beliefs. I've gone from thinking it's crazy to entertain the thought of something more to life to feeling like you'd have to be insane not to at least think it possible. The very fact that we exist at all is pretty damn strange. Where did it start? Why? And I suppose I do find huge comfort in thinking there is a lot more to life than sleeping, eating, drinking, earning money, even creating art. Having some mind for the spiritual stuff gives you a reassuring perspective. Everything that happens is much less important than you make it out to be. Have a little faith.
Ahem - anyway - I digress. By the time the organ recital came around there were about 10 of us waiting in the biting cold for someone to open up. If you're planning to make a visit to The Temple Church do visit their website first, as opening times vary.
I recognised the verger, Oliver, from his online bio and he welcomed everyone inside. I said hello, took my copy of the organ programme and looked up. Instantly I was hit by the striking interior that I can still clearly remember. The vaulted ceiling is a mass of arches supported by several dark stone pillars. The round section to the left is the first part to invites you in. Just visible are 8 of the carved stone effigies of unidentified knights, lain on the floor in two groups of 4 at the centre of the round. We know these figures from the movies, if you've ever seen 'The Da Vinci Code' that is.
I won't describe the entire interior in minutia, I'll save that for the essay... But what was interesting was the strange feeling I felt whilst quietly moving around the church. It was a feeling of excitement and awe. It felt like something interesting was going on. I wanted to know more, to learn about the place, and not just because I'm a massive bookish swot, but because I wanted to. The whole place was very welcoming, friendly. Sure it was clam and peaceful, but in a positive and optimistic way. A feeling of hope I think.
I did my 'art history student' thang and took yet more photos (Anyone can it's allowed, but I did end up buying a book there with a good general overview of the history and great pics). I really enjoyed the organ recital. I love hearing all kinds of live music, that being said I think the last gig I went to was La Roux, which wasn't nearly as churchy... I stole a few moments of Oliver's time and he kindly answers my questions. He told me that the main function of the church was a to serve as a centre of community and to maintain a degree of tradition - after the subject of Jesus of course. Churches should be used for prayer, he said. I wonder how many people do pray now, aside from the times of immense anguish. 'Please God let me get a first in this essay!' But I think it's incredibly beneficial to take stock and realise what you're thankful for, and to have clear intentions of what you want from your life. I left The Temple Church with a renewed interest in the spiritual stuff. I think a life that's void of any concept of God or faith is a life less....rounded.
I had worried that by the time I left London great mountains of snow would leave me stranded, but there was not a flake to be seen. So I ended my mission like any good knight would do, with a feast at Wagamamas in the company of my lovely friend B.
The chocolate frozen yogurt comes highly recommended from both of us.
Right, should get on with structuring this essay bad boy.
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